Established in Osaka in 1931, the long-established "Amiyaki Bifteki* Komatsuya" (*means Grilled Beefsteak in Japanese) is located in the heart of the city center, yet it is surrounded by a classical atmosphere that makes you feel as if you have stepped back in time. The antique furnishings and paintings in the restaurant were collected by the previous owner over a long period of time. Here are some of the works of art that have adorned the restaurant, as well as the famous flavors that have been passed down from father to son for three generations.
（Interview and text by ISHIGAKI Kumiko）
A restaurant specialized in beefsteak has been loved in Kitashinchi since its establishment in 1931.
In 1931, "Kyukyoken," a Western-style restaurant that became the predecessor of "Amiyaki Bifuteki Komatsuya," was established. SAWADA Teruo, the grandfather of the current owner chef SAWADA Masahiro, opened the restaurant in Minato Ward, Osaka City.
Later, in 1946, after World War II, the restaurant moved to Kita Ward, Osaka City. The name of the restaurant was also changed to "Grill Komatsuya". The name "Grill Komatsuya" was taken from Komatsubara-cho, where the restaurant was located. Grilled beefsteak, known as "Bifteki," has been the specialty of the restaurant for years.
It has been about 40 years since the restaurant moved to its current location in Kitashinchi. One would think that the location, with its rows of office buildings, would be used mostly for business entertainment and dinners, but there are also many customers who love art visiting the restaurant on their own.
"Some customers tell us that they used to come here with their families when they were children, and there are customers whose parents and children have been coming here for three generations," says Mr. Sawada.
In a city that is changing so rapidly, restaurants that continue to preserve the traditional flavors of the past may be a source of comfort for the people of the city.
Surrounded by antiques loved by previous generations
The first thing that catches the eye upon entering the restaurant is the beautiful lamps decorating the ceiling. The lamps are all in the Art Nouveau style, and they gorgeously enhance the classical atmosphere of the restaurant.
The restaurant is filled with paintings and other furnishings, most of which were collected by the previous owner, Mr. Sawada's father. The interior is decorated with his wish to make the beefsteak served on special occasions more delicious and memorable.
The lamps by the Dome brothers are the most eye-catching in the store. The curvaceous beauty characteristic of Art Nouveau and the exquisitely expressed grape design are impressive.
The Dohme brothers, along with Emile Gallé, are masters of French glass art. Auguste, the elder brother, managed the factory, while Antonin, the younger brother, directed the production, producing a number of exceptional glass artworks.
The restaurant also has lamps by the Muller brothers, a famous French family of glass artisans, and other items that seem to transport you back to the time when they were active.
Paintings of all sizes adorn the walls. There are a variety of genres, including European oil paintings, vintage Meissen plates, and Japanese-style paintings.
"The items were collected freely according to my father's sensibilities, so there is not much unity," says Mr. Sawada, the current owner, but this is also what gives Komatsuya its one-of-a-kind atmosphere.
The personality of the predecessor, who loved to appreciate the good old things, is well reflected in the way his works are displayed.
It was the idea of the previous owner to replace the plain glass partitions in the store with stained glass. The finely colored stained glass windows are antique glass made in England about 100 years ago, and the missing parts were redesigned using new glass.
It is easy to imagine the painstaking efforts of the previous generation to decorate the store with hand-selected antiques.
Other unique ideas include modifying a table lamp so that it can be wall-mounted and making use of vintage signage to create a sign for the store.
A connection made by a painting. Encounter with Western-style painter, YAMAGUCHI Shinkou.
Artists also come to this art-filled store, and artist YAMAGUCHI Shinkou (1960-), a Western-style painter with whom we have been in contact for more than 30 years, is one of those who love this place.
For many years, he has traveled back and forth between Japan and France, painting landscapes of the south of France, with a focus on the Côte d'Azur region. His paintings are known as "neo-classics in color" because of the traditional Western style and the eye-catching, transparent colors.
Several of Mr. Yamaguchi's paintings are on display at the restaurant.
In a restaurant lit by the orange glow of lamps, "Villefranche in the Mist" stands out for its vivid pink color.
It depicts Villefranche-sur-Mer, a peaceful port town near Nice in southern France, and is one of Mr. Yamaguchi's representative motifs.
Even in the paints he uses, Mr. Yamaguchi's obsession with color can be seen. He pays attention to the age when the paints were made, and chooses only new colors born in the same period as himself, from 1960 onward.
"While new colors of paints are added with time, some colors are no longer manufactured because they are found to have ingredients that are dangerous to the human body. Just as there are colors that are unique to Van Gogh's time, I would be happy if 100 years from now, when people see my work, they feel that the colors are typical of paintings from the 2000s," says Mr. Yamaguchi.
Mr. Yamaguchi's neo-classic creations seem to overlap with the Komatsuya style, which has embraced the new era while preserving the same unchanged taste.
Beefsteak served on a graceful Noritake plate
A dish for a special occasion should be savored carefully through the eyes.
Amiyaki Bifteki, a dish representative of Komatsuya, is served reverently on Noritake plates. Although the number of Western-style restaurants that use high-end Western tableware, which requires delicate handling, seems to be decreasing these days, Komatsuya continues to maintain this style of serving.
It is not only the atmosphere of the restaurant that has not changed. The seasoning of Bifteki has always been the same, with only salt and pepper. This is because the best part of beefsteak is to taste the flavor of the meat straight from it.
The meat is lean beef with a rich flavor and a refreshing aftertaste. The tenderloin is soft to the palate, and the charred grill marks are well done, whetting the appetite.
It is not easy to maintain "the same taste no matter when you come in" in the rapidly changing times. When a meat store that had been a close partner for many years closed its doors, the company had to work very hard to find new clients in order to maintain the same taste.
Having inherited a restaurant that has been loved for a long time and transcended the times, "we could sense that they are making efforts to keep the Komatsuya that customers expect, not only in the taste of the beefsteak, but also in the way the food is served and the atmosphere of the restaurant," and that they are making efforts without any sense of change.
A great restaurant to visit after a visit to the museum
Komatsuya is located in Kitashinchi, within walking distance from the Nakanoshima area where the Nakanoshima Museum of Art and the National Museum of Art, Osaka are located. A visit after touring the museums is sure to bring even more excitement to your art discussions.
It is a special experience to dine surrounded by antiques filled with history and memories. You will experience the happy conflict of wanting to tell someone about this wonderful restaurant, but at the same time wanting to keep it as your own secret hideaway.
Amiyaki Bifteki Komatsuya
Address | 1-11-20 Sonezakishinchi, Kita-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka |
Tel. | 06-6345-2123 |
Opening Hours | 11:30～23:00 （Last Order for food 22:00、Last Order for Drinks 22:00） |
Closed day | Sunday *Closed 8/13-15 and 12/31-1/3 |
Notes. | No smoking |
Official Web site |